Brad's Journal of our trip
Mike and I recently finished our 2nd annual, autumn backpacking excursion. We met at TN exit 451 off I-40 at the TN-NC border. This is the upper boundary of the GSMNP and crossing of the AT.
Day #1 started at Big Creek Ranger Station on the Baxter Creek Trail. We ascended over 42oo' in just over 7 miles to rest at back country site #38, atop Mt. Sterling. This mountain sustained massive tree cuts during the late 1800's and early 1900's. However, the steep, rocky terrain impeded efficient tree removal by the lumber companies. As result, many areas of old growth forest still exist dating earlier than our country's independence. Massive American beech, eastern hemlocks, tuliptrees, and pines are abundant. Trail highlights include a lengthy rosebay rhododendron tunnel and thick clubmoss and fern growths. The ontogeny of the delicate green mosses and ferns continues to benefit human existence. The spores of clubmosses were once used for early ignition powder and flash for early cameras. Mosses and their relatives, the ferns, covered the earth 300 million years ago. They were integral in plant evolution by creating the first vascular tissue allowing water and nutrients to travel from the ground upward. And today as we cruise in our cars and electrify the world, we can thank the mosses and ferns as their decomposed bodies now provide our insatiable supply of oil.
Brad's comments
We were exhausted upon reaching our camp. Fading daylight dictated further work before resting which included pumping water through our filters, gathering firewood, and climbing the lookout tower for awesome sunset views of the Smoky Mountain chain and surrounding valleys. The varying contrasts of blue and red in the mountain line and sky created a lasting memory.
Brad's comments
The art of backpacking requires lightweight equipment and preparedness. We were expecting low temps and possibly precipitation. Even with a starting temperature at near freezing, 15 minutes on the trail with a 40 pound load will require removal of clothes layers. A stop for lunch near the trail head of the Balsam Mountain Trail resupplied the energy needed to hike an additional 6 miles to the Tricorner Knob Shelter on the AT.
Brad's comments
I can't express the enthusiasm we shared upon finding the shelter equipped with a fireplace and a tarp covering the usually open entrance. With darkness approaching and the temperature dropping we traveled a mile down trail in search of firewood. Since the shelters are used nightly the nearby woods are void of firewood. Luckily, the water source was also at the shelter. As we ignited our fire the snow began falling.
Mike's comments
As the snow falls we hang all food to prevent theft from bears. A steel cable runs beween two close by trees. I am attaching Brad's back to a cable and raising it on a pully system. The hour or so spent collecting firewood paid off once I returned to the shelter. It is getting very, very cold.
Mike's comments:
Brad from Indiana, not to be confused with Brad, my hiking partner, shared the shelter with us that night. In the past, Indiana Brad used to work as a ski instuctor then later as a CPA. While cutting down a tree on his, or his parents, farm he sustained a head injury that left him permanently unable to work. Brad asked questions about head injury recovery. "How long do people take to recover?" I believe he saw that this trip was part of his own healing process, as well as a self test. He told us of his memory problems and was hoping to complete the AT throught the Smokies. Although his progress had been slow, he was well equipped. Indiana Brad also gave Brad a Appalacian trail book autographed by the author, addressed to none other than "Brad."
Mike's comments
Eat well and stay warm.
Mike's comments
Again let me say that snow was not in the forecast. It is late October, but this is North Carolina. Brad and I felt well-prepaired. It was important for me to finish this hike in time because I had a job interview the following day.
Mike's comments
We both had good rain gear. Wearing many layers is a good way to stay warm. Neither one of us is wearing a heavy winter jacket. In conditions like this it is not wise to allow your self to sweat. The sweat is unable to evaporate and can make you very cold.
Brad's comments
Day #3. With 18.5 logged miles, stiff legs, frigged temps (26 degrees !), and 5 inches of snow we set off on the AT in hopes of reaching Cosby Knob shelter. Mike took the morning lead as I struggled to find a rhythm. We donned all layers including rain/snow wear and the wind was howling. The trail proved difficult as well with modest elevation climbs and a snowy path. We choose not to stop for lunch by just eating as we hiked. Our trail meals were mainly dehydrated fruits, nuts, jerky, and Cliff bars. Thanks to Jim and Wanda for the dehydrated apples! En route to our next shelter we passed Mt. Guyot at 6000'. It was very peaceful hiking in fresh snow. The trees were glistening with ice and wildlife tracks were abundant.
Mike's comments
There is concern about more snow. We keep our pace steady and eat lunch while hiking. We found that long lunch breaks can cool you down.
Walking on snow-covered trails can be very slippery. Walk slow, carry a big stick.
Will gladly take snow like this on a backpacking trip.
Rugged mountians, the snow stayed mostly on the ridge.
Brad's comments
We reached Cosby shelter after 8.5 miles of judicious hiking just before dark and performed the usual rituals of wood and water gathering. We greeted other overnighters including two girls who were thru-hiking with just 200 miles left on their 2175 mile journey. We shared stories by the fire and filled our bellies with reconstituted dehydrated meals. My vegetable lasagna was yummy! The temperature was in the low 20's and we were basically sleeping in the open. The shelter consisted of three stones walls and an open front. Mike and I shared the upper platform and used our tent fly to serve as a wind break. I also wrapped my sleeping bag with an emergency blanket in hopes of preserving heat.
Brad's comments
I was eager for morning sunlight since the only real way to warm up was strapping on the backpack and hitting the trail. We left before 8am on the AT with 8.5 miles separating us from our vehicles at Big Creek. We climbed several hundred feet to summit Mt. Cammerer and snapped amazing photos. The snow and ice laced branches framed the colorful valley which the snow spared.
Brad's comments
We then began the steep downhill hike of over 4000'. This proved challenging as different muscle groups engaged. The snow became thin until only the forest floor was covered with the colors of fall. We reached our vehicles and headed to the nearby stream for feet soaking and face splashing. Refreshing and bone chilling cold, the water energized our souls! This was a great trip and we look forward to next year's hike. Thanks for the 32-mile journey, Mike!
Mike's comments
We decend into areas where leaves fell after the snow. There was very good forest floor color.
We descend past the snow line, where many of the leaves are still changing color.
Mike's comments
It was a great trip. It is very rare to get an opportunity to see such vivid snow and fall landscapes so close together. Brad and I had a great time and are looking foward to next year's trip.